Hilsa is getting expensive. Why is this fish so revered?

The price of hilsa fish, a delicacy much loved by Bengali food enthusiasts, has risen dramatically. On popular online supermarkets, a 900-gram Bengali hilsa currently costs ₹1,899. This increase in cost has led many to wonder why hilsa, also known as ilish, is so expensive. The size of a hilsa determines its price per kg. The larger the size of the fish, the more it will cost per kilo.

Factors explaining the high price of Hilsa

1. Shortage and demand: Once abundant in the Bay of Bengal, hilsa stocks have declined due to overfishing and increased demand. This shortage has pushed up prices significantly. Limited availability of the fish during certain seasons further exacerbates its high cost.

2. Seasonality: Hilsa is only available for a few months a year, adding to its exclusivity and appeal. Its seasonal nature makes it a sought-after luxury, especially during peak times like Durga Pujo and weddings.

3. Culinary versatility: Hilsa is prized for its unique flavour and smooth texture, making it a versatile ingredient in various culinary preparations including frying, roasting, smoking and steaming. Its distinctive flavour contributes to its high demand.

4. Nutritional and cultural importance: Rich in essential nutrients, hilsa is appreciated for its health benefits. It has cultural significance both in Bangladeshwhere it is considered a national dish, and India, where it is enjoyed on special occasions.

5. Sustainability:Despite high demand, Hilsa is managed sustainably both by Bangladesh and India to prevent overfishing. This responsible management helps preserve fish stocks, but can also contribute to higher prices thanks to conservation initiatives.

While Hilsa’s high price may be a barrier for some, many consider it a worthwhile luxury given its delicious taste, health benefits, and cultural significance.

55kg giant hilsa sells for Rs 13 lakh

While the shortage of Hilsa fish has affected the market, a big Bhola fish, weighing 55 kg, lifted the spirits of fishermen in the Digha estuary in 2022. The fish was sold at the Digha Mohana Fish Auction Centre for Rs 13 lakh. It is the largest marine fish auction centre in eastern India. On receiving the news of the huge fish, tourists rushed to see the giant fish. After bidding for three hours, the fish was bought by Shivaji Kabir, a resident of Nainan in South 24 Parganas at Rs. 26,000 per kg.

Indo-Bangladesh diplomacy

Part of the Hilsa crisis in India has been the result of a ban on Hilsa exports by Bangladesh Between 2012 and 2018, one of the consequences of the failed negotiations between Delhi and Dhaka over the waters of the Teesta River, hilsa remains the undisputed queen of Bengali culinary identity. Some fusion attempts to cook the fish as a biryani or in the South Indian style with mustard and curry leaves have never been successful. Perhaps it is because of its own strong flavours (the best way to eat hilsa, as many agree, is still Bengali style: slathered in mustard with hot steaming rice).

Hilsa the fish that unites the two Bengalis

With the arrival of the monsoon season, Bengalis look forward to enjoying hilsa, often called the ‘queen of fishes’, which they savour in various dishes from head to tail.

Families separated by the border often debate which hilsa tastes better: those caught in the Padma River in Bangladesh or those from the Ganges in West Bengal. Unlike many other communities where Brahmins avoid meat or fish, Bengali Brahmins enjoy these foods, with hilsa being especially popular during Durga Puja. Hilsa is prepared in many ways, including plain curry (jhol), pulao, and steamed varieties (bhapa ilish).

Hilsa also holds a special place in Bengali literature and culture, with celebrated poets such as Rabindranath Tagore and Jibanananda Das writing about this prized fish.

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