Urvashi Rautela Urvashi brought a traditional Manipuri garment to the international stage at the Global Fashion Festival 2024. She wore a 24-carat real gold Manipuri Potloi, designed by Manipuri designer Robert Naorem. This traditional attire gave a glimpse of Manipuri fashion, which is deeply rooted in their cultural heritage. The entire ensemble that Urvashi wore is the one traditionally worn by Manipuri Meitei brides.
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Manipuri bridal ensemble
The most prominent element of the wedding dress, which distinguishes it from other Indian bridal attire, is the drum-shaped, cylindrical skirt, known as the potloi. Made from coarse fibre and bamboo, with satin on top, the potloi is embellished with a wealth of detailing, such as intricate threads, sequins and mirrors. The motifs along the hem of the skirt require delicate craftsmanship and can take days to complete. The skirt is secured with a beautiful belt. A sheer veil drapes the body. Worn with a half-sleeved blouse, it is accessorised with layered necklaces and a large layered headdress called the Kokgee Leiteng.
Urvashi’s red potloi featured heavy embroidery in 24-carat real gold threads. Brides traditionally wear a green blouse and drape themselves in a white shawl. But Urvashi’s look was monochrome in deep red, with gold embroidery accenting the skirt.
Designer Robert Naorem’s work has always been a tribute to Northeastern fashion. He has previously worked with Miss World title winners Sushmita Sen, Harnaaz Kaur Sandhu and Laura Dutta on Innaphee and Phanek, the traditional everyday wear for Manipuri women.
Innaphee is a muslin shawl that is draped around the blouse, while Phanek is a traditional lower garment for women in Manipur. It is a sarong-like garment that has horizontal strips. But this is the first time that a Bollywood The celebrity donned the Manipuri bridal attire and walked the runway.
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Cultural origin
Potloi transcends generations and dates back to the ancient times of the Meitei kingdom. Meidingu Bhagyachandra Maharaj, whose reign was from 1763 to 1798, introduced potloi as a dance costume for the classical Ras-Leela dance. Gradually, it was worn by brides as a wedding attire in the Meitei community of Manipur. The art of potloi making is a cherished tradition passed down through generations. It is taught in families and there is no proper classroom to teach the formal process of potloi making. Potloi requires heavy manual labour, making it a collective community work. This potloi making congregation serves as a classroom for this ancient art form.
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