“I hope you’re hungry because that’s probably the best way to enjoy Chinatown,” Aaron Friedman, my tour guide, tells me on my first night in San Francisco. After a whirlwind sunset sail across the Pacific Ocean under the Golden Gate Bridge, I was eager to see how this country’s oldest Chinatown would satisfy my appetite.
I needn’t have worried. From legendary dishes created by a chef who has cooked for Chinese presidents to cozy dumpling shops, this 150-year-old hub of Chinese immigrants offers everything from upmarket to affordable restaurants, bakeries, shops and bars.
Photo: Max Whittaker
The iconic Peking duck
Entering through the iconic green-tiled Dragon Gate, I was immediately captivated by the red lanterns, pagoda-style buildings, and ornate street lamps. My first stop was Z&Y Peking Duck, an award-winning restaurant famous for its Peking Duck. Chef Lijun Han worked his magic, presenting the dish with perfectly crispy skin, its signature feature. Prepared for 48 hours, it is served at the table with rice paper wrappers and sweet bean sauce. Honestly, I couldn’t get enough of it. Han, the restaurant’s owner, previously served high-level politicians and diplomats at the Chinese consulate.
Photo: Max Whittaker
I also tried the Peking duck with caviar, a seemingly strange combination that produced an explosion of flavours. Chinatown is clearly evolving, putting a modern twist on classic dishes. I also enjoyed the Xiao Long Bao, soupy dumplings that burst in your mouth, and for those who can’t stand spicy food, there was a spicy chicken dish with explosive chillies.
Photo: Max Whittaker
The next day, I took part in a food tour that explored several neighborhoods in the city, with a final stop in Chinatown. Despite having indulged in pizzas and tacos all day, the aroma of dim sum rekindled my appetite.
From dim sum and fortune cookies to Mai Tais
Walking into House of Dim Sum, I was struck by the bustle of this popular spot. Their standout feature: homemade Cantonese-style dim sum and steamed buns. The shrimp dumplings were juicy, the pork buns were flavorful, and I couldn’t get enough of their pork dumplings. They open at 6:45 a.m., as dim sum is a popular breakfast.
Photo: Max Whittaker
Photo: Max Whittaker
Next door, the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory (a small factory that has been operating since 1962) plays a pivotal role in making these cookies a staple in Chinese restaurants across the United States. Using an ancient secret recipe, they produce up to 10,000 fortune cookies a day, all by hand.
Photo: Pallavi Pasricha
I went inside to see the magic with my own eyes. The sweet scent of vanilla filled the air as an old machine rolled out the cookies. A woman expertly placed the lucky token inside and shaped each cookie with a metal rod. I enjoyed a couple of them, and while I don’t remember my fortune, witnessing the process and watching people eagerly open their cookies was a lovely experience. You can even personalize your fortune for a small fee, something I wish I could do in real life.
Photo: Pallavi Pasricha
Chinatown’s bars are also a must-visit, particularly the dive bars. The Li Po, which will celebrate its centenary in 2037, is a local favourite. The mai tai, a cult cocktail that has included celebrities such as Anthony Bourdain, is a must-try. This sweet but potent drink, made with Chinese wine, rum and pineapple juice, packs a punch.
As I walked back, I realized that Chinatown’s charm lies in its vibrant energy and diverse flavors, from the spicy garlic in an alley to the delicate aromas wafting from pastry shops. This is, without a doubt, a foodie’s paradise in San Francisco’s most dynamic neighborhood.
About the Author: The joy of discovering new places has kept Pallavi Pasricha on the road for over 20 years and taken her to over 30 countries. For her, a destination is much more than its landmarks – it is an intricate combination of hidden gems, the stories of its people and the unique flavours of its local cuisine. For her, every quiet alley, every bustling market and every traditional dish tells a story that adds depth to the experience. She finds joy in discovering lesser-known places that reveal the true character of a place.
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