The recently concluded Hyundai India Couture Week saw a decline in inclusive and diverse models on the ramp, we dig deeper to find out why.
A couple of years ago, when inclusivity in fashion became a buzzword, every designer wanted to be a flagbearer of inclusive fashion by casting models of all shapes and sizes for their shows. But, this season’s India Couture Week seemed to be devoid of diversity, with only a handful of inclusive models taking part in it. To say that there was a dearth of representation of models with diverse body types and abilities would not be wrong. From gender-agnostic models to plus-size models, couturiers merely waved a dismissive hand by hiring a handful of them to walk the runway. In the name of symbolism, content creator Sakshi Sindwani was seen walking the runway for Gaurav Gupta, Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla and transgender model Gaia Kaur was seen walking the runway for Rimzim Dadu. It was in the year 2017, when Anjali Lama became the first transgender model to walk the runway alongside other pool models and soon after, fashion models leaned towards diversity and every show became inclusive in casting their models. And while this welcome change should have grown exponentially, the recent couture week left us without enough representation of cultures and body types.
Why is body diversity declining in India? We dig deeper to find out.
Standing at 1.42 metres tall and based in Mumbai, Toshada Uma is India’s first petite model who has been competing with all the tall and slender models on the catwalk with her confident and assertive attitude. She has been a regular on the catwalks and understands that casting models for shows and shoots can only be inclusive if it becomes the norm, otherwise until then, it is all just tokenism. “I have never walked the catwalk with another petite model before, not even once. The best thing I have seen is the inclusion of maybe 3-4 plus-sized female models per show. Another tricky aspect here is the pay level, while I am paid more than handsomely to participate in campaigns, shows are a different matter. Models are discouraged from participating in fashion weeks in India because the pay is not commensurate with the hours and effort they have to put in, irrespective of how conventional their attire is,” she says.
“India Couture Week has never been inclusive, so there is no inclusive era to compare it to. The industry at large only has a handful of models who don’t fit the ‘norm’, so to speak. It’s a systemic problem that needs to be addressed, not an isolated incident,” she adds.
Ishpreet Kaur is the first turbaned model to walk the runway and she too is of the opinion that the trend of diversity on the catwalk is waning. “I believe in the power of inclusion to transform the fashion industry. While this season’s couture week may not have seen the diversity we hope for, I remain optimistic. As someone who has been a part of this industry, I have witnessed first-hand the power of inclusion. It’s not just about ticking boxes; it’s about creating a shift in perspective. The absence of diverse models this season is a stark reminder that we still have a long way to go.”
There has also been a decline in modelling agencies hiring inclusive models for campaign shoots and TV commercials. Earlier, more and more agencies were looking for plus-size models, gender-agnostic models, models with certain skin conditions or even Down syndrome. But this trend has slowed down. “Agencies hire models based on the needs of the market. There was a surge in inclusive models a while ago, but now it is a mix of all kinds of models,” says Shikhar Sidharth, director of TSS Agency India.
Disclaimer:
The information contained in this post is for general information purposes only. We make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the post for any purpose.
We respect the intellectual property rights of content creators. If you are the owner of any material featured on our website and have concerns about its use, please contact us. We are committed to addressing any copyright issues promptly and will remove any material within 2 days of receiving a request from the rightful owner.
