Kalpasi: An edible lichen that is an essential ingredient in Chettinad cuisine

I was at Ten Degrees, one of my favourite restaurants in Kodaikanal, when the conversation with the chef turned to local Kodai ingredients. One of the ingredients that came up was kalpasi (also known as Dagad phool in Hindi). The chef mentioned that kalpasi, also known as black stone flower (Parmotrema perlatum), is essentially a dried lichen that grows in the lower levels of Kodaikanal. They are typically found on rocks and tree branches. Not far from Kodaikanal is the Chettinad region in the south. Tamil Nadu which is the home of the Nattukottai Chettiars. The community’s trade links across South East Asia have shaped the distinctive identity of this cuisine. The cooking style may have its roots in the heartland of Tamil Nadu, but it is enriched by an unusual and often exotic set of ingredients. Kalpasi is one such ingredient.

Lichens are not only used in India, but all over the world. Iceland moss (Cetraria islandica) used to be a key ingredient in Northern Europe and Scandinavia. This lichen has been used in many dishes, from bread to pudding and porridge.
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In its raw state, this ingredient may not have much flavour or aroma, but everything changes when it comes into contact with heat. It releases a very distinctive earthy, almost smoky flavour when heated with cooking oil or ghee. This is one of the reasons why it is used in the tempering process and in biryani masalas across India.

Kalpasi is the star ingredient in the chicken chukka kalpasi (see recipe) I tried at Sanghamithirai at the Feathers Hotel. Sanghamithirai offers regional cuisine from across Tamil Nadu and Prem Kumar, the hotel’s executive chef, believes that kalpasi adds a wonderful dimension to this chicken chukka that works really well as a starter. The other dish I tried was a kaikari venjanam, a thick vegetable curry that is a great accompaniment to dosa or as a side dish with rice and sambar or rasam. This vegetarian dish uses a mix of other spices, such as cinnamon, cloves, fennel seeds and bay leaves. It also includes star anise, another spice unique to Chettinad cuisine, but it is the kalpasi that adds flavour to this dish.
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As Kari Wenjan

Recipe courtesy of Prem Kumar, Executive Chef, Feathers Hotel, Chennai

Ingredients:

• Cooking oil – 15 ml (peanut oil works best)
• Cinnamon- 2g
• Cloves – 1g
• Fennel seeds – 1g
• Bay leaf – 1 g
• Cardamom-1g
• Star anise – 1 small pod
• Calcium-2 g
• Coriander powder – 10 g
• Chili powder – 5 g
• Turmeric powder – 2 g
• Fennel powder – 5 g
• Chettinadu Spice Powder – 2 g
• Coconut paste-15 gr
• Onion – 50 gr
• Tomato – 25 gr
• Ginger and garlic paste – 10 g
• A few curry leaves
• A few strands of fresh cilantro
• Assorted vegetables (you can add chicken thighs, eggplants and potatoes)

Method:

• Heat the oil in the pan.
• Add all the garam masala and onion once the oil is hot.
• Add the ginger-garlic paste, tomato and mixed vegetables once the onion turns golden. Sprinkle with a little water.
• Add all the spices mentioned in the recipe. Cook until the raw smell disappears.
• Add Coconut paste once the vegetables are cooked.
• Finish with fresh coriander leaves.

Kalpasi Chicken Chukka

Recipe courtesy of Prem Kumar, Executive Chef, Feathers Hotel, Chennai

Ingredients

• Cooking oil – 25 ml
• Cinnamon- 2 gr
• Cardamom – 1g
• Fennel seeds – 1 g
• Bay leaf – 1
• Mace – 1g
• Marathi Moggu (buds) – 1 g
• Star anise – 1 small pod
• Kalpas – 5 grams
• Curry powder – 5 g
• Coriander powder – 10 g
• Turmeric powder – 5 g
• Fennel powder – 2 g
• Cumin powder – 5 g
• Onion – 50g
• Tomato -10 gr
• Ginger and garlic paste -10 g
• minced garlic – 2 g
• Sliced ​​green chili – 2

Method:

• Add oil to the pan and then add all the spices once the oil is hot.
• Add the onion and sauté until golden.
• Add the ginger, garlic and tomato paste once the tomato is cooked.
• Add coriander powder, fennel powder, turmeric powder, pepper powder and cumin powder once the raw tomato is cooked.
• Add the chicken once the raw smell disappears.
• Sauté until chicken is tender.
• Temper with oil and kalpasi.
• Finish with curry powder, curry leaves and fresh coriander.

About Ashwin RajagopalanI’m the proverbial slashie: a content architect, writer, speaker, and cultural intelligence coach. School lunchboxes are often the beginning of our culinary discoveries. That curiosity hasn’t waned. It’s only grown stronger as I’ve explored culinary cultures, street food, and fine dining restaurants around the world. I’ve discovered cultures and destinations through culinary motifs. I’m equally passionate about writing about consumer technology and travel.