With a Spring/Summer The 2025 collection reinvents the iconic trench coat with a streetwear twist. English designer Daniel Lee brought a breath of fresh air to financially troubled fashion giant Burberry on Monday. The designer, who has been at the creative helm of Burberry for the past two years, moved away from the tradition of setting the standard for the 2025 collection. London Fashion Week The show was held in a tent set up in the heart of a park, opting instead for the concrete of the brutalist National Theatre building.
For the scenography of the venue, the creative director turned to British artists. artist Gary Hume, who redecorated the building’s foyer, was inspired by one of his 1990s installations. A lilac carpet and large green sheets perforated with geometric patterns added colour between the grey concrete pillars. Under the gaze of celebrities – Vogue USA editor-in-chief Anna Wintour, actor Barry Keoghan, Blur singer Damon Albarn and recent Paris gold medallist Keely Hodgkinson – the models entered via one of the building’s massive staircases. (Read also: From sunset lips to goth eye makeup: 5 beauty trends you can borrow from London Fashion Week 2024 )
The classics that form the DNA of the British brand are still present: the men’s turn-down collar trench coat, tartan checks in shades of grey, beige or cream and carefully structured contours. But even “Burberry icons evolve,” writes Daniel Lee in his statement of intent, as “elements of the trench coat are deconstructed and realised in fabrics that give a feeling of lightness: silk poplin and linen.”
For women, the designer reinvented the trench coat as a short jacket, a halter cape or a parka with shoulders covered with faux feather trims of silk organza, layered over delicate dresses or skirts, mixing elegance with a more sporty, even military style.
Spring palette
For men, the influence of sportswear is even stronger, with lightweight materials and functional cuts giving rise to fluid trouser sets and zip-up tartan jackets, paired with trainers or loafers. “There’s a tension between looser, more fluid fabrics versus leather and pieces inspired by traditional British uniforms,” explained Lee. The collection also gave a nod to the resurgence of Y2K fashion, with low-rise trousers, cargo pants and capris that end below the knee.
Before the show, Daniel Lee said he admired artist Gary Hume’s “extraordinary use of colour” and his palette of green, lilac and orange is reflected in the collection, which ends with glamorous gold sequined dresses. Since joining Burberry in October 2022, Lee has set out to modernise the cornerstone of British luxury, which is facing increasing financial difficulties.
For several months now, the British fashion house has suffered from a lack of global appetite for luxury goods and unfortunate strategic decisions. Next week, Burberry will exit London’s FTSE 100 after 15 years on the blue-chip index. It has been the worst-performing company on the FTSE 100 over the past year, with its share price plummeting by around 70 percent.
British-born Jonathan Akeroyd stepped down as chief executive following a string of poor results in July, after just over two years at the firm, and was immediately replaced by American Joshua Schulman, former head of the Michael Kors and Coach brands. On its penultimate day on Monday, London Fashion Week also featured shows by Labrum London, Irish designer Sinead O’Dwyer and, for the first time, Edeline Lee, a favourite of Victoria Starmer, wife of Prime Minister Keir Starmer, who sat front row at the show for the occasion.
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