Fashion Sometimes it takes risks, and designer Michael Kors would tell you that some risks aren’t worth taking. Last year, his September show was held outdoors and the weather didn’t cooperate, so he decided to have his spring/summer 2025 collection in New York Fashion Week Instead, I would bring nature inside.
Kors and his team created a unique model clue In a cavernous, stark space in a downtown building, with stark metal benches lining the rectangular walls and giant faux black rocks scattered in the center and sides, resembling the rocky beaches of the Amalfi Coast. The drama of Italian cliffs in an urban setting was part of Kors’s abstract inspiration. (Read also: From Rihanna’s mesh cape to Camila Cabello’s stunning look: the best dressed celebrities at New York Fashion Week )
Risks of fashion and innovation in interiors
Kors says he is “glued” to pop culture and was especially fascinated by the recent Netflix series “Ripley,” based on Patricia Highsmith’s classic novel, “The Talented Mr. Ripley.” The dark story is set on the coast of Italy, where a man who covets a friend’s wealthy life kills him and takes over his identity, killing anyone who threatens his new persona.
“Seeing this dark, melancholic, romantic story shot in black and white, I thought it brought something very different to romance,” Kors told The Associated Press backstage before the show. “There was a kind of dark side to romance that is not sweet, not bland, not mysterious. And also, this is my 35th anniversary working with Italian artisans and I really wanted to highlight all the incredible tailors and artisans in Italy.”
The result was a show that used harsh lighting and a haunting instrumental soundtrack to set the perfect mood for lots of black and white and muted colors with looks evoking Ripley’s hybrid 1950s streetwear/resortwear style. “There’s a lot of texture, black raffia, white embroidery. It’s all very tactile,” Kors explained. “It’s all the colors you would find in the Mediterranean. So all the natural colors have very soft browns and creams. And then of course there will be blue.”
Inspiration from pop culture and dark romance
The brand’s craftsmanship was on display with intricate lace dresses and skirts and several dresses, skirts and coats embellished with flower appliqués. Accessories were prominent in the collection with leather bags, hats and shoes festooned with black raffia that looked like leather straw. Nearly every look featured a belt, some styled loosely but extra-long and knotted to hang down, and others wide and fitted at the waist. The ubiquitous trench coat appeared for men and women on the runway, mostly oversized and baggy.
This season’s shows took guests and media to every corner of the city and its surrounding areas, showcasing its beauty and the designers’ creativity: from a horse ranch in the chic Hamptons for Ralph Lauren, to a giant ferry docked on the East River for Tommy Hilfiger, to a former Domino sugar factory in Brooklyn for Tory Burch. The front row of the show was packed with celebrities, including Kerry Washington, Mary J. Blige, Shailene Woodley, Mindy Kaling and Lindsay Lohan.
Lisa Rinna said she was thrilled and touched that her daughter, Amelia Gray Hamlin, was walking in the parade, but she knows she can’t attend every time. “It’s very important to me not to be in those parades. I want her to have the moment,” the actress and reality star said. “So when she can… I have to be pretty ‘conscious and demure’ because I can’t embarrass anybody!”
“I’m always so inspired by simplicity, by craftsmanship. He has a real love for women that is very understated, but very consistent,” said Olivia Wilde. “I always feel so beautiful in his clothes.” Suki Waterhouse wore a pink lace Kors dress and a matching fluffy coat. “The straw shoes with the matching bag were my favorite,” the actress and singer said after the show. “I need to book a vacation so I can wear those things.”
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