Recipe: Shrimp and corn in butter and Calabrian chili sauce

There is simple cooking and fast cooking.

When I’m making dinner, I always reach for the former, but not necessarily the latter. Some days, I feel like making a meal with several components, like my Roasted cod with Old Bay potatoeswhere I stay in the kitchen for a good 45 minutes. Other dishes, like my fresh tomato pasteThey make the most of their time: the longer they sit, the better they feel.

But when I’m in a hurry, or just hungry, now — I turn to ingredients that reach their peak of deliciousness quickly. In this case, those ingredients are shrimp and corn, cooked in a smoky Calabrian chile butter for a dish that takes just 15 minutes, tops, to prepare.

Start by preparing your products: peel the skin and silk from 1 ear of corn. Cut off the kernels. (Despite all the tricks out there on how to do this without making a mess, I find the best method is to simply lay the cob on its side.) Place the kernels in a bowl and set them aside.

Peel and cut into cubes 1 large shallot and set the pieces aside. Cut a small lemon in half and set aside. (You can store the second half in the refrigerator; you won’t need it.) generous handful of basil leaves that are roughly the same size. If they are small, leave them. If they are large, stack them, roll them tightly, and cut them into thin strips. Set them aside. (This will be your garnish, but it makes sense to do this task now, when you have your knife and cutting board handy.)

Place a stainless steel skillet on the stove (though you can use something else—cast iron is sturdier than you need, and a nonstick pan wouldn’t sear the shrimp as well). Turn the heat down to medium. With stainless steel, it’s essential to get the temperature right from the start—that’s the key to getting the food to release easily from the surface of the pan. Wait a couple of minutes until the pan is hot. If you’re unsure, sprinkle a couple of drops of water over the surface. If they break into beads that slide across the pan, you’re all set. If the water evaporates immediately (at this point, you’ll likely see wisps of smoke, too), lower the heat a bit to let the pan cool a bit. If the water doesn’t do anything, let the pan get a little hotter and try again.

Add 1 tablespoon olive oil to the pan so that the surface of the pan is covered with a thin layer. If you need a little more oil for a decent layer, feel free to add it. Place ½ pound peeled and deveined shrimp in a single layer on the bottom. Season the shrimp with kosher saltand let them cook for three minutes. Use tongs to turn each one over. If they stick together, wait 30 seconds and try again. They will lift out easily when they are done. Cook the other side for another minute. Remove the shrimp, place them in a bowl and set aside.

Add 1½ tablespoons butter to the pan, swirling the pan as it melts so it coats the bottom. Add 1½ teaspoon crushed Calabrian chili peppersThis seasoning is spicy, but not too spicy, and I say that as someone who likes things milder. Add the diced shallots, stir, and let them soften for two minutes. Add the corn, stir again, and cook for about three more minutes, just to take the starchy, raw edge off the kernels without turning them into mush. Add the shrimp back to the pan, squeeze the half lemon over the top, and stir one last time so everything is evenly coated with the lemon juice and chili butter.

Serve, plate, sprinkle with basil, a piece of bread and enjoy this: If you were ordering takeout, you’d still be staring at the screen, deciding what to order.

Emma Wartzman is the cooking and dining writer at New York Magazine‘s the Strategist.Additional photo illustration credits: plate photo by Emma Wartzman